Next Sweater in Progress

"And then we can go outside?"

I've finally gotten started on Pebbles's next sweater. She is an elderly dog, so I felt that she really needed a granny sweater to suit her personality. No frilly, pink feathered things for this old lady dog on days when she's feeling her doggy arthritis and creaking around the house; she needs something truly matronly.

I decided to make her Whistler's Mother's Dog's Sweater. If you've ever seen James McNeill Whistler's Arrangement in Gray and Black No. 1, you know that iconic black dress, and it seems to me to be the epitome of an old-time elderly lady's wardrobe. Pebbles needs just such a dress.

I'm working it in crochet, and so far I have the bodice complete. I had to go ahead and stitch the buttons on so I could try it on her for fit, and I might need to move them because it's a little baggier than I would like. Now to get the skirt just right, and a nice high white lacy collar to go on it.

Sweaterless Dog

Needless to say, I haven't had much time for little dog sweaters lately. Poor Pebbles never did get her little dog Christmas sweater, and now I'm working on a shirt and scarf for me -- I know, selfish! -- so she hasn't had anything new lately.

I think she needs a new summery blankie. Pebbles must be covered when a blanket whenever she sleeps, no matter how hot the weather. I think it must be a security thing. Anyway, she crawls under hot afghans and throws and it drives me crazy that she lays under there sweating and panting. I think I'll make her some little lightweight lacy blanket so she can feel covered up with out really being covered up. I'll have to hunt around for a stitch style I like and get started on it.

New project - Christmas Sweater

Pebbles needs a Christmas min pin sweater. I've decided to do her a red dog sweater with a black belt and white furriness around the collar, sleeves and hem. I think I'll knit this time - as soon as I'm through with my own scarf I'll get started on her holiday outfit. She needs a party dress too, right?

Autumn Stripes Crochet Min Pin Sweater

This cozy sweater striped in autumn colors has a ribbed neck and decorative ribbing on the back hem. Raglan-style sleeves narrow down to a close band to keep chills away. You can change the colors to any of your choosing for different looks.

MATERIALS

Main Color (MC) 1 skein Lion Brand Vanna's Choice in Brick
Color A 1 skein Lion Brand Vanna's Choice in Dusty Green
Color B 1 skein Lion Brand Vanna's Choice in Rust
Color C 1 skein Lion Brand Vanna's Choice in Chocolate
Size E and Size F crochet needle or size needed to obtain gauge
Yarn needle size 2 3/4”

GAUGE: 15 dc and 10 rows = 4 inches with larger hook

STRIPES

1 row MC
1 row color B
1 row color A
1 row color C
1 row color B
1 row color A

Note: Change colors BEFORE the ch 3 at the end of each row.

Stitch counts are written for an average size min pin. Numbers in parentheses allow a little extra room if your min pin is a bit pudgy.

PATTERN

If you'd rather have this pattern in PDF form, click Autumn Sweater PDF.

Neck

Using MC and smaller hook, chain 8 loosely.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each chain across. 7 sts. Ch 1, turn.

Row 2: Sc in back loop only of each sc across. Ch 1, turn.

Repeat prev row 44 (46) times. On last row, don't make the ch 1. Don't end off.

Shoulders

Switch to larger hook. Begin making stripes using pattern above.

Joining row: Ch 3 for first dc. Make 49 (53) dc along the long side of the neck piece. 50 (54) sts. Ch 3, turn.

Row 1: Dc in first stitch, inc made. Dc in each dc across to last stitch, 2 dc in last dc, inc made. 52 (56) sts. Ch 3, turn.

Rows 2 – 7: Repeat Row 1. 64 (68) sts. Don't end off.

First Leg Hole

Row 1: Skip first dc. Dc in next 7 (9) dc. 8 (10) sts. Ch 3, turn. Leave the rest of the row unworked.

Row 2: Skip first dc. Dc in each dc to end of row. Ch 3, turn.

Rows 3 – 5: Repeat Row 2. On last row, don't make ch 3. End off.

Upper Back

Go back to unworked stitches from first row of the leg hole. Skip the next 7 (7) stitches after the leg hole piece and join the yarn to the row.

Row 1: Ch 3 for first dc, dc in next 33 dc. 34 (34) sts. Ch 3, turn. Leave the rest of the row unworked.

Row 2: Skip first dc. Dc in each dc to end of row. Ch 3, turn.

Row 3 – 5: Repeat Row 2. On last row, don't make ch 3. End off.

Second Leg Hole

Go back to unworked stitches from first row of the leg hole. Skip the next 7 (7) stitches after the upper back part and join the yarn to the row.

Row 1: Ch 3. Dc in remaining 7 (9) dc. 8 (10) sts. Ch 3, turn.

Row 2: Skip first dc. Dc in each dc to end of row. Ch 3, turn.

Rows 3 – 5: Repeat Row 2. You will end at the edge of the work. Don't end off.

Remaining Chest

Row 1: Skip first dc. Dc in each dc along second leg hole. Loosely ch 7. Dc in each dc across upper back section. Loosely ch 7. Dc in each dc on first leg hole. Ch 3, turn.

Row 2: Skip first dc. Dc in each dc and ch across. 62 (66) sts. Ch 3, turn.

Row 3: Skip first dc. Dc in each dc across. Ch 3, turn.

Repeat Row 3 until piece measures 3 ½ inches from the bottom of the leg hole to the last row worked. Don't end off.

Waist and Lower Back

Row 1: Slip st in next 15 (15) dc. Ch 3. Dc in next 31 (35) dc. 32 (36) sts. Ch 3, turn. You should have 15 dc remaining unworked for the row.

Row 2: Skip first dc. Dc2tog, dc in each dc across to second to last dc, dc2tog. 30 (34) sts. Ch 3, turn.

Row 3: Repeat Row 2. 28 (32) sts.

Row 4: Skip first dc. Dc in each dc across. Ch 3, turn.

Row 5 – 6: Repeat Row 4. End off.

Back Ribbing

With MC and smaller hook, ch 10 loosely.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each chain across. 9 sts. Ch 1, turn.

Row 2: Sc in back loop only of each sc across. Ch 1, turn.

Repeat prev row 25 (27) times or until length of ribbing matches the length of the lower back hem. On last row, don't make the ch 1. End off.

Stitch neck and chest seam, taking care to line up the stripes.

Raglan-style Leg Sleeves

With MC and smaller hook, working from the inside of the sweater, join yarn to corner of leg hole closest to neck band and chest seam.

Round 1: Make 13 sc in lower edge of hole, sc in each of 7 dc on left side of hole, 13 sc in upper edge of hole, sc in each of 7 dc on right side of hole. Join with ss to first sc. 40 sts. Ch 1.

Round 2: Skip first sc, sc in next 12 sc, hdc in next 7 sc, dc in next 13 sc, hdc in last 7 sc, join with ss to first sc. 40 sts. Join color A. Ch 1.

Round 3: Skip first sc, sc in next 12 sc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 5 hdc, dc2tog, dc in next 9 dc, dc2tog, hdc in next 5 hdc, hdc2tog, join with ss to first sc. 36 sts. Join color B. Ch 1.

Round 4: Skip first sc, sc in next 12 sc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 4 hdc, dc2tog, dc in next 7 dc, dc2tog, hdc in next 4 hdc, hdc2tog, join with ss to first sc. 32 sts. Join color C. Ch 1.

Round 5: Skip first sc, sc2tog, sc in next 9 st, sc2tog, hdc2tog, hdc in next 3 hdc, dc2tog, dc in next 5 dc, dc2tog, hdc in next 3 hdc, hdc2tog, join with ss to first sc. 26 sts. Join color B. Ch 1.

Round 6: Skip first sc, sc2tog, sc in next 7 st, sc2tog, hdc2tog, hdc in next hdc, dc2tog, dc in next 3 dc, dc2tog, hdc in next hdc, hdc2tog, join with ss to first sc. 20 sts. Join MC. Ch 1.

Round 7: Sc in each st around. Join with ss to first sc. Ch 1.

Round 8: Sc in each sc around. Join with ss to first sc. End off.

Belly Opening Edging

With MC and smaller hook, join yarn to edge of opening. Sc evenly around the opening and in each dc at the back hem. End off.

Finishing

Sew back ribbing to back hem. Weave in all ends.

Min Pin fit adjustments on standard sweater patterns

At first glance, a min pin looks like he should be easy to fit for a sweater. After all, how hard can it be? But beware! Min pins have body features that make them a tricky fit and require adjustment on standard patterns.

1. Barrel-chested
Despite his trim body, your min pin has a disproportionately big chest for his little waist. You'll be tempted to choose the small size for his sweater. Look again. Your min pin's chest measurement is about 15"-18" around. For most patterns, this is a medium size sweater. If you're not sure, get out your tape and measure him. He'll think you're weird, but that's okay.

2. Short, thick neck
Your min pin's neck is almost as big around as her head. Her neck is also short, compared to other dogs. This means that turtleneck sweater patterns usually slip up over her cheeks and end up over her eyes. She will be uncomfortable and what's more, her visibility will be affected, putting her in danger. You'll have to shorten the neck length on turtleneck patterns to take into account her short stature.

3. Skinny legs
I don't even have to tell you that your min pin has skinny legs. It's pretty obvious. Unfortunately, most sweater patterns are designed to be comfortable for a variety of dogs, and many dogs have a lot of hair that needs extra space. This means your little friend is going to get wind up his shorts unless you tighten up the leg holes. Fit his leg holes to be big enough for his leg plus your pinky finger to be sure that his sleeves don't pinch.

4. Stubby body
Again, it's a proportion thing - for a chest as big around as hers is, she should have a longer body. Medium size sweaters will fit her chest measurement, but they'll be dangling over her little butt unless you shorten the sweater length. It's more than just stopping a few rows short, though. Most sweaters have a portion that covers doggie's chest but stops about halfway down her belly. This is so she doesn't urinate on the sweater when you take her out for a potty break. To make a medium sweater the right length for her, you'll need to shorten both the belly portion and the back portion. Every pattern is a little bit different.

Adjusting your pattern to fit your min pin takes a little fiddling, but it's not impossible. Just remember - measure your little four-legged model, make the changes described here and she'll be strutting her cozy stuff in no time.